Adventures in Bedlam

Tutorial: How to Make a Bezel Part II

I posted the first part of this video tutorial from Art Jewelry Magazine a couple of weeks ago:  Making a Bezel Part I.

In my studio today I spent a lot of time taking pictures for my own tutorial on making a bezel set ring, but unfortunately I didn't finish.  Since I think these videos from Art Jewelry Magazine are straight forward and easy to follow, I thought I'd post the second video in the series in absence of my tutorial.

If you are thinking of learning to make metal jewelry, I hope these videos inspire you.  It's really not as difficult as you might think and it is such a satisfying process.

Tutorial: How to Make a Pair of Earrings with French Earwires

I had some time left over in the jewelry studio today and I decided to take some photos for a tutorial on how to make a simple pair of earrings with french wires.

Making a Bezel Part I

It seems like my posts are all beginning the same way lately:  It's been way too long since I posted.  Well, the same is true of today's post, and lacking any original content whatsoever, I decided to peruse YouTube for some ideas.

I came across this video tutorial for making a bezel:

This is only part one, which covers measuring for your bezel.  You can see the subsequent videos in this tutorial on YouTube.

What I like about this video is that even though I generally use thicker bezel wire (generally 5-7mm), it gave me some techniques (such as using the sticky part of a post-it to measure my stone) which I had not known or thought of.

I have been making handmade jewelry and goldsmithing for almost 8 years now, but this is a good reminder that sometimes it's great to go back and "re-learn" even the most basic of techniques.

Quick Hits

I've been accumulating a few of miscellaneous web links lately and it's time to post them.

Lost Wax Casting Process
From Beth Cyr Jewelry, this is a great tutorial about the lost wax casting process, which is something I'd really like to learn.

Amazon Kindle
Mick and I each bought one of these a couple of months ago.  We LOVE them.  Instead of watching TV every night we're reading and we're much smarter now.  Mick wrote two blog posts about it:  Embracing the Kindle and Sharing Two Kindles if you're interested.

Works in Progress
These photos are from Kathryn Reichert who sells beautiful jewelry on Etsy.  In this pictorial, she shows how she makes bezels for pendants.

Shapely Prose
Kate Harding's Fat Acceptance blog.  I don't agree with everything she says, but that doesn't mean she doesn't make a lot of great points and body acceptance is an important issue for men and women alike.  Of particular interest is the BMI Project.

Craft Boom
Lisa Lam of U-Handbag's blog about starting and running a crafty business.  U-Handbag always makes me wish I could sew (well, sew better).

In other news, I got another treasury today and it features some really great Etsy jewelry artists:

A note about treasuries.  They expire within two or three days, so links I post will quickly become outdated.

Using a Magnetic Tumbler

I am excited to report that I got a new toy today:  a magnetic tumbler.  I love anything that makes my job easier!

It is very easy to use.  The first thing I did before putting any jewelry into it was clean the magnetic tumbler pins.  To do this, I put a small amount of pins into the air/water-tight plastic container:

Next, I put about an inch of water into the container:

I then put a very small amount of liquid soap (purchased from the jewelry supply store) into the container.  You can eyeball this but really, just put a very small amount, like a quarter ounce.

It's hard to see the soap in this photo, but it will help give you and idea of how much to put in:

Next, pop the top securely on the container and place it on top of the tumbler.  You will feel the magnetic pull.  Set the timer for about 30 minutes and flip the power switch up.

After the 30 minutes is up, you will need to rinse the container and the metal tumbler pins.  You might want to use a strainer for this, although it's not necessary.  Pour out the soapy water and rinse until the water runs clear.  You can also take a paper towel and wipe the sides of the container if there is any leftover debris.

The process for tumbling jewelry is exactly the same.  Fill the container with the clean tumbler pins with water and soap, then put the jewelry you want to clean into the container.

In this case, I put some headpins I wanted to clean, some finished jewelry (including chain), and even some stones.  I wouldn't put anything too soft (like turquoise or coral) into a tumbler but in this case (quartz) it's okay.  If you have any doubt about a stone, don't do it.

Set the timer for 30 or 40 minutes, and flip the power switch.  When the jewelry is done, you will need to rinse it and dry it.

Here are some of the finished pieces that will be going into my Etsy store later!

When you are not using it, be sure to take the plastic container holding the tumbler pins off the base so they don't become de-magnetized.  It's also a good idea to unplug the machine when not in use.  To prevent rust, store the pins in the container with water and rinse them (as explained above) before using the tumbler again.

I got my tumbler at A to Z Jewelry Supply in Downtown Los Angeles, but there are many different online retailers and brands to choose from.

Introduction to Metalsmithing

First of all, Happy New Year!

One of my goals for the new year is to offer video tutorials in metalsmithing. I've been asked so many times how one can learn metalsmithing so I know it's something people are interested in. My first video will be an intro to metalsmithing and I hope to produce it some time in the first 2 weeks of 2008. Having never done anything like this before, I'm not sure how long it will take but I think 2 weeks is a reasonable time-frame when you include the other stuff I need to do to keep my business afloat.

This intro will primarily be about what tools and materials you will need to get started. This initial investment might seem daunting because there is a lot to get, however, I've been using more or less the same tools since I started making handmade jewelry back in 2001. Of course I've added to my tool box as I've developed my skills, but I still use these basic tools on a daily basis.  This list of tools is a companion to the video I will be producing in the weeks ahead, so stay tuned.

The first instructional videos will primarily use the tools listed under Raw Materials, Soldering, and Finishing.  Future videos will include sawing and forming metal.  The intent of the videos are to teach basic techniques for making headpins, clasps, earwires, jump rings, pendants, et cetera so you can enhance your designs by adding extra unique elements.

The list of tools and materials I'm listing is from the 2007 Rio Grande Tools & Equipment catalog.  I'm listing the name of the item, the item number, and price so you can quickly find exactly what I'm talking about, although I think Rio's website requires one to register before you can shop (which is why I'm not linking directly to the items).  You can print this list out and use the item numbers to "quick shop."  There are, of course, other sources for these tools, so by all means, shop around--I've tried to be as specific as possible so you know what to look for.  My apologies if I've left anything out.

TOOLS

Raw Materials (Sterling Silver - prices depend on silver prices at time of purchase)
21 gauge wire (1/2 hard) - 100351
26 gauge wire (1/2 hard) - 100356
20 gauge sheet  - 100120
Solder (easy) - 101200

Soldering
Butane torch - 500226 $47.95
Heat block - 502004 $13.20
Third Hand - 502066 $11.55
Cross lock tweezers - 115206 $4.95
Tweezers - 115053 $6.00
Soldering tweezers - 115074 $6.95
Copper tongs - 501017 $7.75
Soldering pick - 503021 $7.30
Flux - 504006 $8.50
Pickle - 5010233 $10.10
Pickle pot - 501012 $18.95
Straight snips - 114227 $19.95
Flux brush - a plastic paint brush will do

Sawing, Cutting & Shaping Metal
Portable bench pin - 110010 $7.95
Saw frame - 110068 $9.95
Saw blades: sizes 2/0 & 4/0 - 110195 $9.25 each
Pliers (needle nose, round nose, flat nose, half-round--buy the best you can afford, as these will get plenty of use.  I'm listing an economy set here just for reference) - 111909 $27.00
Dividers - 116329 $11.25
Automatic center punch - 118111 $15.75 or center punch - 118116 $7.50
Flexible shaft tool - A Dremel will work in place of this, but eventually you might want to get a Foredom flex shaft - 117534 $183
Twist drill bits - 77 (.46mm) - 349436 $7.10, 75 (.53mm) - 349434 $7.10
Ring mandrel - 112366 $24
Rawhide mallet - 112209 - $15
Ball peen hammer - 112198 $17.95
Steel bench block - 112495 $14.00
Safety goggles

Finishing
Emery paper - 337342 $14.60
Polishing cloth - 337040 $3.30
Hand file (half-round, 2 cut) - 114316 $26.50
Needle files (cut 2) - 114262 $16.75
Cup bur (about 1.9) - 344351 $9.40

Metalsmithing 101 - How to Make a Simple Hook Clasp

I've been making my own clasps lately and I really like the look they give to otherwise generic-looking chain.  The process of fabricating one is extremely simple, so I thought I'd post a little tutorial on it.

Tools & Materials:
18g sterling silver round wire
Metal shears
Soldering torch
Solder
Soldering block
Flux
Pickle
Cross lock tweezers
Tweezers
Round nose pliers
Rolling mill or hammer & metal block
File
Emery paper
Method of polishing

Making the clasp

1)  Snip about 2 inches of wire using your metal shears.

2)  Holding the wire with your cross lock tweezers, dip one end of the wire in flux.

3)  Use your torch to melt a small ball on the end of the wire with the flux.

4)  Hold the wire with your round nose pliers (close to the narrowest part of the pliers) right above the ball you've made.  Curve the end of the wire so that the ball rests against the wire.


5)  Holding the wire at the top of the small curve you've just made, curve the wire around the widest part of your pliers.


6)  Use the rolling mill to flatten the largest curve of your clasp.  This will add strength to your clasp, as well as being a nice design element.

It will look like this:

Note:  If you don't have access to a rolling mill, you can complete this step by hammering the curve on a metal block.  Marks left by the hammer can be smoothed with emery paper.

7)  Trim the tail of the wire to your desired length.  Using the narrowest part of the round nose pliers, curve a small bit of the tail outward and file it flat.

8)  Lay a small bit of solder between your ball and the clasp and brush with flux.

9)  Solder these ends together and put the clasp in pickle.

10)  Smooth all rough edges with emery paper or an emery stick.

11)  Polish your clasp using your method of choice.

You now have a pretty little clasp!  Add one jump ring to the looped end and attach it to your chain.  Add a second jump ring to the other end of your chain and you'll have your "eye" for the hook to go through.

Teaching Your Friends to Knit

I don't consider myself a great teacher.  I lack patience and sometimes it's just really difficult to get certain points across.  So when my friends Heather and Theresa asked me to teach them to knit, I had slight reservations.  I'd tried teaching some other friends to knit a few years ago and it really didn't seem to go that well.   Still, I figured at worst we'd have a fun afternoon, and quite possibly I'd introduce/indoctrinate two more obsessive knitters into the world!

How to Teach Your Friends to Knit

1)  Prepare your lesson in advance.  I tried to keep the first lesson as simple as possible, with an emphasis on the basics and reading knit patterns.  In retrospect, I never even got around to teaching the purl stitch, and most of our time was spent on casting on and knitting the first row.  I'd forgotten how much practice it takes just to learn these two basic steps!

2)  Prepare materials.  Originally we were going to go to Wildfiber, my LYS, and pick out yarn, needles, etc. together.  Somewhere a long the line we decided we'd just use scrap yarn I had around the house.  I didn't like that idea though so I decided to surprise them each with a knit kit comprised of a skein of Manos del Uruguay variegated wool yarn, a tote bag, a tapestry needle, and size 10 straight knitting needles.  I also threw in a Jughead digest for good measure, which was an impulse buy at the supermarket check out.  I printed out copies of my "lesson plan" and put them in the bags as well.

3)  Get snacks.

4)  Drink wine.

5)  Begin the lesson.

The first thing I did was to explain that yarn often comes in hanks and that before knitting with them, you need to wind them into balls using a ball and yarn winder:

Next, I began the lesson in the obvious way, by explaining the cast-on.  I taught them the long-tail cast-on since that's pretty much the only way I ever do it.

Then we continued to the knit stitch.  My friend Theresa had already learned to knit a few years ago, but she'd learned the English method.  I taught her the continental method, which she liked better.

My plan was for us to complete a small square, then I would teach them how to bind-off.  Unfortunately, we didn't even get that far!  There was a lot of unraveling and starting over going on, which is an integral part of the learning process.

We ended our lesson with a plan to get together again soon so that I could teach them more of the basics.

All in all, I think it was a successful afternoon, and both of them promised me they'd practice so our next lesson would be more productive.  We'll see!

Jewelry Tutorial: Love Token

As a jewelry designer, I often give jewelry as gifts, at least to my female friends.  I'd love to make some jewelry for my husband, but unfortunately he's not the swinging, gold-chain wearing type (or any other kind of chain for that matter), and will only wear his wedding band.

So what's a Jewelry Girl to do when a holiday like Valentine's Day comes up?  I decided to make him a "Love Token" to carry in his wallet:

Now before you say, "Hey, that picture is out of focus," please note that I made a couple of errors when stamping the metal, which are explained below.  Instead of a mistakes, however, I prefer to think of them as "design decisions."

Before beginning this project, give some thought to what you want to write on your token.  You can just write "Love" if you want, but give it some thought to make the token unique.

My husband and I met through an online personal ad that I placed way back in 1996.  I no longer have the text for the entire ad, but I started it with Shakespeare's sonnet #130, which begins:

My mistress' eyes are nothing like the sun...

And ends with this couplet:

And yet, by heaven, I think my love as rare As any she belied with false compare.

In the spirit of the sonnet, I decided to stamp a sun-like shape at the top of the token, and I modified the closing text to read "My love is rare."

Skill level
Beginner (requires basic metalsmithing)

Materials & Tools

1)  Jeweler's saw
2)  Alphabet metal stamps (1/16)
3)  Emery paper
4)  Sharpie (preferably thin point)
5)  Metal block
6)  About 10 grams sterling silver or gold or at least an inch square sheet of 18g (1 mm) of either metal
7)  Metal file
8)  Emery stick
9)  Hammer
10) Circle template or compass
11)  Rolling mill (not pictured)

Here's how it's done:

1)  This being a special occasion and all, I decided to use 18k gold in this project.  Sterling silver will work just as well, and is a lot less expensive, and the process is the same regardless of whether you use gold or silver.  If you use sheet metal for this project, skip to step #6.

2)  Using your jeweler's saw, cut at least a 3/4 inch piece of metal.  You can eyeball this--it doesn't have to be precise.

3)  Mill your piece of metal flat to about 2 mm.  Be careful not to smoosh your fingers.  With a piece that small it's easy to do.  My jewelry teacher offered to start it for me, so I let him.

4)  Anneal your metal to soften it for further milling.  If you don't, it can crack or peel at the edges.

5)  Continue to mill the metal to 1 mm thickness.  You can do it thinner if you want, but 1 mm will give the token a solid, coin-like weight, which is what I wanted.



6)  Draw your shape (in this case, a circle) on your metal using the Sharpie.

7)  Using your jeweler's saw, carefully cut the shape out of the metal.

8)  Using your metal file, emery stick, and emery paper, file and smooth the token so that all sharp edges are removed.

9)  Anneal your token again so that the metal will be easier to stamp.

10)  Using your Sharpie and a ruler (or your plastic template) draw rough guides where your letters will be stamped.

11)  Carefully begin stamping your letters/design onto the token using your metal stamps, hammer, and metal block.

I cannot stress the word carefully enough when you are stamping the metal.  It is very easy to accidentally stamp the wrong letter or to stamp it upside down if you aren't careful.

Case in point:

Can you see that I accidentally used the "A" in love and the "V" in rare?  Oh, and I just noticed that the "S" is upside down.  Sigh.  Those tiny letters are hard to read on the stamps!

A perfectionist would've re-did the token but I am not a perfectionist.  Instead, I re-stamped the V and the A, hoping that the resulting design would give it a rustic, handmade look, which was my intention from the beginning, despite the mistakes.

12)  Using a few different types of hammers, I pounded the token here and there to give it a more distressed, old coin-type look.  I was also hoping to disguise my mistake, which I was only marginally successful in doing.

13)  Polish your work if you want a shiny finish, use a satin finish buff for a brushed finished.  I gave mine a shiny finish, then distressed it some more by putting it in a jar with some quarters and shaking them.

14)  Style variations:  You can do almost anything with your love token.  Try, for example, cutting a shape in the middle of it, or solder a shape (like a heart) in a contrasting metal.  For this project, I came very close to fabricating it in silver and then soldering a gold heart to the top instead of a sun.

15)  Give the Love Token to your honey and then make him take you out to dinner.  Happy Valentine's Day!

Print this tutorial

All material copyright 2007 by Holly West.  The design demonstrated in this tutorial is for personal use only.  Please do not copy the design for re-sale.

All material copyright 2007 by Holly West.  The design demonstrated in this tutorial is for personal use only.  Please do not copy the design for re-sale.

Sterling Silver Circle Earrings with Golden Tourmaline

This week I decided to try something new:  jewelry tutorials.  I had a particular design in my head, So I took my trusty camera to the studio so I could photograph each step of the process in making them.

When I got home and viewed the photos, I realized I'd need to bring a better camera if I was going to continue doing this. For now, however, I present to you:

Sterling Silver Circle Earrings with Golden Tourmaline

Skill level:  Beginner (requires basic soldering knowledge)

Materials

2 gemstone briolette beads (I used tourmaline)
5 inches sterling silver round wire, gauge to be determined by size of hole in briolettes.  For my project, I used 26g wire.
2 sterling silver jump rings
2 sterling silver leverbacks with split loop
Silver solder

Tools

Soldering equipment - third hand, flux, paint brush, soldering block, torch, pickle (not pictured)
An object to use as a mandrel (I used a metal punch)
Pliers to hold and shape as needed
Wire clippers

Making the Earrings

1)  Wind your wire around the object you want to use as a mandrel several times

You'll end up with a spring-like piece of wire like this:

2)  Clip the wire to make individual circles, similar to the way you would cut jump rings.



3)  Slip one of your briolettes onto a circle

4)  Make sure the ends of the circle are touching, and lay it on the solder block.  Using your brush, put some flux on the closed end. Put some flux on a small piece of silver solder, then lay it on top of the closed ends of your circle. 

5)  Carefully solder the ends of the circle closed using a small flame.  Keep the heat as far away from your stone as possible.

6)  Next, you'll solder the jump ring on using the same solder you used to close the ends (again, use a small flame):

7)  Put it in the pickle.

8)  Using the emery stick or emery paper, smooth the area you soldered, being careful not to scratch your stone.

9)  Polish your work. 

10)  Your finished component will look something like this:

11)  To finish your earring, open the loop on the leverback carefully, the same way you would with a jump ring.  Attach your component and close the loop.

12)  Repeat process for second earring.

13)  Put earrings on and enjoy!

If you make these earrings, send me a photo and I'll post it in the gallery.

All material copyright 2007 by Holly West.  The design demonstrated in this tutorial is for personal use only.  Please do not copy the design for re-sale.